Pattern Review – Colette's Sencha Blouse

The first Colette pattern I saw was the Lady Grey coat, and it fired up a ‘me want’ feeling that just got bigger when I looked at the other patterns in her range, and read that they’ve been designed with an eye on the ladies with a C+ cup. (Small busts: Check out Colette’s site for some handy tips on making a small bust adjustment, as well as some inspiring pictures in the gallery.) How fortuitous that Alice asked me if I’d be happy to review a pattern from her new shop, Backstitch – I leapt at the chance, and finally settled on the Sencha Blouse.

Sencha Blouse

Made in very short sewing bursts when I wasn’t entirely knackered or covered in fish pie (Fitz is getting more creative with his mealtimes) it was an absolute dream to sew. I’ll definitely be making this one again, in a variety of fabrics. It’s so easy to wear & in fact I’m going to wear it today, while drinking margaritas. Read the full review at Backstitch! (More pictures at flickr)

Sencha Blouse Pattern and Kaffe Fasset spots fabric from Backstitch.

Still Learning

Just a couple of tips from the sewing desk today. I’ve been making progress on February’s make, so much so that there is only the final hem to do. Sometimes I have to leave the final hem for a couple of days, pulling on and pulling off the almost finished garment, seeing how it stands up and trying to decide if it’s worth the effort of the final finish – a weird seamstress’s superstition I have invented, I think.

On to some little things that have made all the difference to this project…

Hemming made simple

This is a trick I first saw in one of my japanese sewing books. It is especially tricksy to turn up the hem of a knit fabric evenly, since the best thing about knits – their fluidity – is also what makes them a pita to sew with. Instead of having to re-measure your folded hem allowance constantly, simply draw a line on a piece of card and fold the fabric over the edge up to your mark. Nifty and quick – I had my sleeves pinned in mere moments.

Choosing the right needle

If you are coming to dressmaking from more crafty kinds of sewing you may be used to fitting your machine with a standard needle and zipping away with no problems at all. Different fabrics present different challenges – what to do about a perfectly functioning machine that is suddenly skipping stiches? The answer is most likely not that your machine is broken, or even that the tension needs adjusting,  but that you need a different needle. The topmost line of sewing is done with a standard needle (90/14), and I had a few skipped stitches, so switched to a stretch needle. But lo – more skipped stitches. The skipping only stopped when I used a finer stretch needle (75/11). It’s a small thing but it might save you some grief – they aren’t expensive, and they can make a difference. I would probably now add needles to interfacing and pressing in the list of ‘seemingly unimportant things that matter’. Never too late to get even more geeky about your sewing…

Lifelogging.

It seems another month has almost passed. I can only let the statement sit there as baldly as that, because I have no idea how to staunch the flow of time, let alone reverse it so I can properly notice and acknowledge its passing.

A make a month - February

I am still making progress with my make a month for February. In retrospect, I should have chosen a smaller project for the shortest month of the year, but I’m pleased with the way it’s looking so far. I did contemplate rushing through and finishing for the end of the month, because I do like rules, but I also promised myself that there would be no rushing (finishing school, remember?) so I held off. See? Growth already.

Even though I have been remiss in keeping my online life current I thank Jen for my sunshine blogging award. I confess it brought a wee smile to my face & made me feel fuzzy. This is why I love doing this – no, not the awards, but the connections between us. Thanks to all you lovelies once again.

Plans. Best laid and all that.

When it comes to plans, I’m pretty good. I’ve got tons. One evening I sat down and quickly wrote the things I could be doing if I wasn’t writing down the things I could be doing; I ended up with an 8 point list, and those were just the projects at the forefront of my mind. I didn’t go anywhere near the back, where the dusty projects lie, having been overtaken by other newer shinier ideas. Project butterfly, that’s me. It’s not very productive if I’m honest, especially not now.

Since the sewing needs to be slotted in rather than pounced on in every spare moment I’ve realised that what I need is much more detailed planning. Unless I head to the sewing room with a clear idea of my objectives I’m much more likely to faff about stroking ribbons and pulling out the fabric drawers one by one (a common complaint), and since I notice that we’re sliding towards the middle of February rapidly if I don’t make some sort of plan soon, then I’m going to be scrambling for a make on the 28th. Now the boy naps for a maximum thirty minutes, so five minutes rooting around in the pattern stash, and another five in the fabric…

There’s an upcoming family party, and it will be the first time Fitz meets some of Mr J’s extended family. I am still cultivating a mum tum with restorative Kit Kats (so hard to give them up when you’re tired), although battling the same with the help of a pedometer. I walk everywhere with the boy in his buggy and I love it, although since I can’t do one thing without something else falling out of balance I feel constantly guilty about not using the car enough to justify the expense, and worry that the battery will die. We will have to go to Ikea for a rug to redress this. This is a roundabout way of explaining that I want to have something to wear but am unwilling to spend money in a shop, since I feel my shape is in flux.

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The red jersey was bought with the intention of becoming a second cosmo dress, with long sleeves this time. Then it got stuffed in the stash because I was up the duff (a legitimate excuse!). Now I can’t decide if it should be the cosmo dress, or become a delicious dress, which I would wear as a tunic (and thank you to Lisa for tweeting the suggested combination of tunic and trousers.) While I was debating, I realised that whichever I chose I would be partaking not just in a Make a Month, but also in Experiments in Dressmaking, which is Florence‘s new obsession (so thrilling considering how she always said she couldn’t do clothing). Not as experimental as making my own patterns, but it will do.

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And so my next thought was that if 2010 should have sewing themes (because I don’t want to be left out here) then my theme ought to be finishing. I mean that in both senses; actually completing projects, and also completing them with care and precision. So often when I make things for myself (not for others I must add) I slap dash my way to the end because I get too excited and want to use whatever it is I’m making. It’s unsatisfactory. I also think I’m not learning anything new by ploughing on like that, so a bit of additional care and attention, and a little use of a sewing bible, even when I think I know something, might prove illuminating. I think as well it might help to restore some of the lost joy – sewing for the fair felt too much like work, and I’m not in it for that.

All aboard. I’m going to Finishing School.